>> caver01 said:

...I am awaiting my BlueSCSI 2, then I will need to print a mount for it Click to expand...

I have a BlueSCSI v1 mounted directly to the motherboard SCSI connector via the nifty SCSI Rider Type-A by @Kay K.M.Mods . What I love about SCSI Rider Type-A is it doesn't block anything! Putting a BSv1 or BSv2 on a 3D printed mount at the back of the slot on the SE or SE/30 creates issues on some machines.

I've been evaluating a 3D printed mount for use with one of those SD card "extenders" so I can easily insert and remove the SD card with the Mac's back housing in place.

>> JDW said:

creates issues Click to expand...

Yeah, I get that. I don't have any other expansion add-ons or riser cards and such. There was a time I was hoping to find an ethernet adapter (we all were, right?) but now there's no need. There was PiSCSI, but with the BlueSCSI2's wifi I am set. I don't plan to invest in acceleration or rare video, so I am feeling good about using the expansion port area. Wottle's crystal clear mount sure looks nice.

>> caver01 said:

Hey, nice! Yeah, supports in there won't matter at all. I will say that the only reason I designed it in two parts was to avoid dealing with the supports, but that looks just fine. You'll have to trim off the brim, but I bet both will work great! For my project, I am awaiting my BlueSCSI 2, then I will need to print a mount for it--probably gonna use Wottle's or a modified version of it. I have been second-guessing a flush mount out the back of the expansion area. I always liked PotatoFi's mount which put the SD card out the back, but it was hard to reach in there and get a micro SD, so I had made my own version which puts the slot flush with the card sticking out. HOWEVER, at least with the V1 of BlueSCSI, the protruding micro SD card was somewhat fragile, especially if you pack up the system. It's easy to snap that little card right in half, and I had a card pull itself out in my trunk next to another SE a couple years ago. I suppose I won't be moving the clear case around too much, and a regular SD card (adapter in my case) won't be as fragile, but it might also be easier to grab. I need it in hand to see what I wanna do I guess. Click to expand...

The full size SD card for the BlueSCSI v2 is much easier to retrieve. Also, I use a microSD card and an adapter, so if something were to put pressure on it and have it break, hopefully it would be the adapter and not the card itself. I've broken 2 microSD cards trying to get them out of the old BlueSCSI v1s.

The clear adapter I used extends out makes it very easy to get the full sized SD card in and out. It also has a nice opening that allows for insertion without having to turn the machine around. I'd recommend removing the card If the machine was going to be transported somewhere where it could end up bumping things with its back.

Thanks for the follow up. That's the kind of hands-on report I needed. I am going to take a look at the model now to see if the holes are good for my threaded inserts and maybe add the four screw holder holes that PotatoFi has on his model. This is just a really convenient place to store the HDD mounting screws if you ever need them again for a future device. As I will be printing mine in clear filament, I will also look for any overhangs that might be worth dealing with.

I just soldered my BS2 kit. It looks nice and solid. Even though I have used V1, I want to take a peek at the docs to see if should do anything special with LEDs. I see there are solder jumper pads for brightness which is pretty awesome.

>> caver01 said:

I want to take a peek at the docs to see if should do anything special with LEDs. I see there are solder jumper pads for brightness which is pretty awesome. Click to expand...

If I am installing a new LED, I don't bridge the jumpers. If I'm using the amber LED original to the Mac, I'll bridge JP2. JP1 won't be bright enough.

@wottle How well does the back panel fit over your crystal clear BlueSCSI2 mounting bracket? I am comparing the amount it protrudes into the expansion port area and it is almost double the version I have installed in my SE/30 today which sits flush. I have not assembled my MacEffects case yet, so maybe it is thicker, but does yours

>> caver01 said:

@wottle How well does the back panel fit over your crystal clear BlueSCSI2 mounting bracket? I am comparing the amount it protrudes into the expansion port area and it is almost double the version I have installed in my SE/30 today which sits flush. I have not assembled my MacEffects case yet, so maybe it is thicker, but does yours Click to expand...

The fit's very nice. I'm not home right now but I feel like the extruding part is nearly flush with the back of the case.
[Image: IMG_3899.jpeg] [Image: IMG_3900.jpeg]

That's excellent. Thanks for sharing those photos. . . Wow that clear resin version looks really nice. I know you commented on it having a little texture, but this looks way better than mine will look. You can see the PCB right against the "window".

I am printing my bracket now using your model. Much appreciated. I did split it into three pieces instead of just two to avoid overhangs.

>> caver01 said:

That's excellent. Thanks for sharing those photos. . . Wow that clear resin version looks really nice. I know you commented on it having a little texture, but this looks way better than mine will look. You can see the PCB right against the "window". I am printing my bracket now using your model. Much appreciated. I did split it into three pieces instead of just two to avoid overhangs. Click to expand...

Yeah, my model was more optimized for the resin printing I was planning to do, so it is probably not as good for FDM printers. I also found this model, which looks like it may be better suited for FDM printing. Also, with its thinner outer wall, I wonder if it would look better with the clear resin print. I can't tell which version of the BlueSCSI v2 it was built for, so my guess is I'd need to create a version with different mount locations.

I do really like the one I made, so it's not worth it for me to re-print a new mount, but I may see if I can update that print for others that might want to do the same. The cost savings appear to be significant. The one I posted cost ~$15 to print in clear resin, the model linked above only costs ~$6 to print in clear resin. If anyone is interested, let me know and I can try to update the above linked model to have the proper screw mount locations for 2023.10a version of the BlueSCSI v2.

>> wottle said:

I can try to update the above linked model to have the proper screw mount locations for 2023.10a version of the BlueSCSI v2 Click to expand...

I took a peek at the model you just linked. Let's call it the jonschwenn model. It definitely looks to have been designed with FDM printing in mind. However, I see a few issues when I pulled it into TinkerCAD alongside yours. . .

The PCB mounting holes would need to be adjusted as you mentioned, but when I lined up the expansion port screw holes, they are not even close. I don't know how this could have fit an SE chassis at all. I just printed yours and it lined up perfectly.

Also, the jonschwenn model has some missing solids. It appears to be modeled with walls first, then a solid block near the chassis mount holes, but the blocks are missing upon import into TinkerCAD. It's another example of STL file breakdown. Maybe it's an easy import/fix/export from Prusa slicer, but the dimensions of those chassis mount holes are a concern.

On the plus side, I do like that has no overhangs and should print without supports. There is the bridge over the SD card slot, but a bridge that size should be fine. I also especially like the thin wall facing the back. This will have better transparency with T-Glase or other clear FDM filaments, as it minimizes the number of layer/perimeters that obscure the light.

I might play with this since I can print another bracket without much issue. The changes I would make:
1. Fix the mounting holes for the chassis. It just seems out of proportion and needs to be wider.
2. Fix the mounting holes for the latest BlueSCSI PCB. It probably only needs one hole in the middle since the board is already captured side to side.
3. Add a top surface over the SD card slot using 45-degree from the back edge. This will give it a little more back to front depth along the back face so that you don't end up with a gap along that top edge.

PCBWay parts arrived. I really, really like how they turned out.

the parts at the back are for my G3 tower.

Thanks to Nick Gillard of 1-bit Rainbow for the original STL and huge thanks to @caver01 for having fixed 779 errors and uploaded the newest version STL:

[right] STL DOWNLOAD [left]

I now have a beautiful Red PLA printed CRT Yoke Protector from JLC3DP...

[Image: tempImageHyTLpc.png]

[Image: IMG_7155.jpg] [Image: IMG_7157.jpg] [Image: IMG_7158.jpg]

It was a little hard to get on because you have to slightly bend out all 4 legs to slide it down and lock it on, but after 5 minutes I was able to do it. It's PLA but it didn't crack when I slightly bent the legs, probably because I didn't bend them a lot, which made it harder to get on by protected the plastic.

This is useful for anyone who does the LCD Retrofit by @zigzagjoe .
Protect those CRTs before they go into storage!

if it was difficult to put on, have you tried taking it off?

>> wottle said:

I think I may still be able to do it for a reasonable cost. I'll mainly wanted to wait to see if the fit works before ordering more. Right now, if the part I merged works, I can order 12 and still get the cheaper <$4 shipping. The total for 12 would be a bit under $3 per knob, shipped to me. So I think it would be $3 each plus the additional shipping and packaging to each person. Right now, I have the following people in the US interested: Who QTY @tom_B 2 @Markintosh 2 @Garrett 1 @This Does Not Compute 1 @wottle 1 @caver01 1 So, with the 2 I have arriving soon, I will probably order a batch of 12 to have some for others if needed. Also, one thing I've found with JLCPCB is that they can be strict with items with the Apple logo on them, but if you do get one to pass approval, the model is not required to go through approval again, so you can print them again without issue. I got the standard G5431 top piece with the real Apple logo and was able to re-print. My original had a screw post break off. I used the "reorder" feature in JLC3DP to get another and it never went into the review process. So, maybe worth trying to order an item with the Apple logo hoping it makes it through the review process. Click to expand...

OK, my order of the larger inner diameter parts finally arrived. The problem is I have 8 "orders" on here and I only bought 7 in this order. I believe someone (@Markintosh or @tom_B ?) mentioned they probably only need one, so that probably will mean I have enough to send to people who expressed interest.

I did test all 7 on a spare analog board and it is still a very snug fit (It feels very close to the original part). So I think if you're ordering from JLCPCB in the clear resin, I would use the 6.2 ID version.

As you can see in this picture, it sits nicely down on the stem and should work perfectly, versus the original I got that I had to grind down a bit with my Dremel tool.


The part went on with a tiny bit of force, and it came off with a little bit of prying, very similar to the original part. Here's a closer look: [Image: IMG_4623.jpeg] [Image: IMG_4622.jpeg]


Unfortunately, the "let's see how this works" print of one in metal (the original part, not the larger inner diameter one), seems imposible to get on. I suspect it is a combination of the fact that it is probably completely inflexible and the fact the surface has the feel of 400 grit sandpaper. That said, it ended up a gorgeous print. For small items that are not at risk of conducting electricity, I might start using it more.

[Image: IMG_4620.jpeg] [Image: IMG_4621.jpeg]

For those still interested, DM me and we can work out the details. I think these seem sturdy enough I may be able to use padded mailers to cut down on shipping cost. The challenge is it is essentially 1" cubed so I don't think I can use a USPS mailer. But hopefully we can get something not too expensive.

Alongside my CRT Protector came all the knobs and another two sets of my Mac SE and SE/30 metal chassis DESK SAVERS. Below are all high resolution photos so be sure to click them to see the detail.

People who want to print the knob (normal inner diameter version or the slightly larger 6.2 version) should grab the download here.

At bottom right in the photo below you can also see the stock knob and the replacement POT which can be used on the Dummy Analog board of the LCD Retrofit Kit by @zigzagjoe .

[Image: JLC3DPprints.jpg]

Here's a zoom of the Desk Savers, with the black being SLS 3201PA-F Nylon and gray being MJF PA12-HP Nylon. Note that the Gray MJF is slightly smoother and less gritty to the touch so I would highly recommend that for people wanting to print these!

[Image: DeskSaversZoom.jpg]

I printed the Fan Mounting Bracket by @alxlab using FDM PA12-CF (carbon fiber), and it is perfect for use on the @zigzagjoe LCD Retrofit Kit's Dummy Analog board, although it would require you to buy machine screws and nuts, whereas the stock metal bracket only needs the stock machine screws. The carbon fiber should make it stand up well over time despite the vibrations of the fan mounted to it.

[Image: FanMountingBracket1.jpg] [Image: FanMountingBracket3.jpg] [Image: FanMountingBracket2.jpg]

I printed the standard knob (not the 6.2 version) in TPU just for fun, but it mounts easily on the POT due to its flexibility, although it is only semi-transparent. And sadly, JLC3DP wouldn't process it without the silly brim due to their min. size restrictions, which means if you print it in TPU at JLC, you will need to spend time removing the brim. Should be easy but I've not done it yet.

[Image: Knob_TPU.jpg] [Image: Knob_TPU_inside.jpg]

I then printed two versions in 100% transparent SLA 8001 resin, one being the standard inner diameter and the other being the 6.2 version.

[Image: Knobs_Clear.jpg] [Image: Knobs_Clear_Insider.jpg]

Hands down, print the 6.2, not the smaller diameter version STL! Because even the 6.2 didn't slide on as easy as the factory knob does, neither on the factory Analog Board POT, nor on the replacement POT for the @zigzagjoe Dummy Analog Board. Note that in the two photos below, I didn't slide the transparent one on all the way because it's tighter than the factory knob and I knew that sliding it on all the way would mean I would need to fight and riddle to get it off, and I didn't want to do that. I wanted to get my photos edited and uploaded for you folks faster. :)

[Image: Knob_Clear_onPOT.jpg] [Image: Knob_Stock_onPOT.jpg]

And here's the transparent on the POT for the LCD Retrofit Kit, which I bought separately and is not included with the kit. Because the shaft is shorter, I was able to slide it on all the way and didn't need to worry about fighting to get it off. Again, even the 6.2 is tighter than the factory knob in terms of that inner diameter which fits onto the shaft.

[Image: Knob_Clear_onZZJ-POT.jpg]

And lastly, here is the knob printed in FDM PA12-CF (carbon fiber). Neither of these wanted to slide on, probably because this filament doesn't print smoothly like resin does, and while TPU doesn't print smoothly either, it's far more flexible. Note the seam on the side that would also need to be cleaned up as well. It would take a lot of work to make the 6.2 fit on, and even then I worry the gritty nature of this print would result in the knob not turning smoothly unless more work was put into making it be very finely sanded down. I don't really want to waste time doing that, so these are just test prints to inform you all that you shouldn't print the knob in PA12-CF.

[Image: Knobs_Black.jpg] [Image: Knobs_Black_Inside.jpg]

Now, I've not installed these in the Mac yet so I cannot say how easily they turn. Specifically, the little protruding part that sticks out of the knob at the tip and which fits into the back side of the front plastics of the Mac must be smooth in order for the knob to turn smoothly. The TPU will obviously be harder to turn than the resin, but again, I won't know for sure until I've actually put it inside the machine and tested. But for now, I'd say the 100% transparent knob in the 6.2 inner diameter size is the winner, even though it takes more force to push onto the POT's shaft than the stock knob. (Not a lot more force, just a bit more.)

>> Dave928 said:

if it was difficult to put on, have you tried taking it off? Click to expand...

The red CRT yoke protector was difficult enough to get on such that I won't be taking it off until I need to off. Because if I take it off now for a test, then I have to put it on again, and honestly, my blood pressure is high enough these days. Not impossible, but not fun either. If it only had to legs, it would be so easy to do! And I think it would hold one well enough too. But having 4 legs proves really good support such that it will protect the Yoke better, so I understand why it was made the way.

Funny to get excited about a little knob, but those clear ones look great!

The title of this thread is

MacEffects Appreciation Post

A lot of folks are missing those important thread because of the title.

Please let me know what you all think if I were to rename it:

3D Printing & MacEffects Appreciation

what about "MacEffects Appreciation & 3D printed accessories"

>> Dave928 said:

what about "MacEffects Appreciation & 3D printed accessories" Click to expand...

The main reason I suggesting "3D Printing & MacEffects Appreciation", with 3D Printing appearing first is because this thread has predominantly become about 3D printing. Some may feel this thread is about 3D stuff exclusively pertaining to MacEffects cases, but in fact we have talked about a lot of things which go beyond that.

If one feels that to be inappropriate, another option is to move all the 3D printing posts out of this thread into a new thread entitled "3D Printing" or similar, completely divorced from MacEffects topics.

Or we just leave things as is, which means people scanning thread titles will likely overlook this thread because the title makes it sound like it is only about people who want to thank MacEffects exclusively.

>> wottle said:

OK, my order of the larger inner diameter parts finally arrived. The problem is I have 8 "orders" on here and I only bought 7 in this order. I believe someone (@Markintosh or @tom_B ?) mentioned they probably only need one, so that probably will mean I have enough to send to people who expressed interest. Click to expand...

I can cut back to 1