A small addendum to ThePhage's splendid User's Guide to 0dan0's Enhanced Firmware...
In the FrameRate section I read "8mm film is 16 fps; Super8 film is 18 or 24 fps".
While it is true that the frame rate for standard-8mm cameras was 16fps in the days of spring-driven ("clockwork") motors, with the arrival of battery-power, circa 1961, most manufacturers adopted 18fps as standard. Thus when scanning standard-8mm film the appropriate setting depends on the camera that was used; older film almost certainly 16fps, post-1961 possibly 18fps.

>> Rob_A said:

I've been collecting my thoughts for some comments and queries about the updated firmware and use of the Kodak Reels in general, but this discussion of alternative lenses prompts me to jump in now with a specific question that seems relevant. 0dan0 unhappily reports that "16mm AZ-231622S-MAC hasn't worked, I couldn't get a focus at this short distance". Might it not be possible to achieve focus at a closer distance by adding a supplementary lens? Back in the sixties I used a 1 dioptre "close-up" lens on my Sankyo 8mm camera when shooting animation. Similarly a 2 dioptre supplementary on my 35mm Voigtlander enabled me to copy prints etc. at a shorter distance than the standard (fixed) lens allowed. Granted that we're now considering a MUCH shorter distance than in those cases I suppose that in principle it might be possible to come up with a supplementary that would appropriately reduce the focusing range of the 16mm lens. Others with more knowledge of optics will be better able to calculate the required spec for such a lens, but it seems to me that it might be a feasible solution. Obviously any additional glassware potentially degrades the achievable quality by some margin, but maybe not enough to offset the advantage of an optimised field of view? This thread has been an invaluable resource while I've been getting to grips with my "Kodak" Reels and I have to express my appreciation of all the contributors, particularly those responsible for the hugely impressive firmware and hardware enhancements. My scanner is as yet unmodified, until I have completed an initial digitisation of my family's 8mm archive (1958-82) but I hope that in due course I'll be able to take advantage of all that voluntary development work. Click to expand...

I have tried diopters. That might work if the focus was almost in, it wasn't close with the above lens. I expected the sensor needs to be mounted higher. In basic optical terms it makes sense, the longer 16mm lens, requires more distance from the front element to the sensor. Moving too much higher is both not practical, and could defeat the goal of greater magnification. A lot of work for a film format that doesn't resolve that much anyway.

>> Rob_A said:

A small addendum to ThePhage's splendid User's Guide to 0dan0's Enhanced Firmware... In the FrameRate section I read "8mm film is 16 fps; Super8 film is 18 or 24 fps". While it is true that the frame rate for standard-8mm cameras was 16fps in the days of spring-driven ("clockwork") motors, with the arrival of battery-power, circa 1961, most manufacturers adopted 18fps as standard. Thus when scanning standard-8mm film the appropriate setting depends on the camera that was used; older film almost certainly 16fps, post-1961 possibly 18fps. Click to expand...

Thanks for the clarification and history, Rob_A. I've updated the User Guide appropriately.

With a Model C on v7.1.1, I started scanning a 7" reel of Super8 film yesterday. Started off going well for about 7 minutes of resulting footage (with no issues on the resulting file). And then I had to stop the capture to re-frame the image. I restarted the capture and it automatically ended after about 17 minutes of resulting footage (the MP4 file is 4.2GB in size). When it ended capture, the scanner's on-screen display'gave me the typical poup message about closing or playing the file. But the scanner seemed to be frozen because it wouldnt' respond to button pushes. I was able to power off the device and the most recent captured file was okay. I am curious if the capture ended because of a 4GB filesize limit. On previous scans of 7" reels (about 9 months ago), my files never exceeded 4GB, even with Mac84's increased bitrate firmware.

Also, I'm sad to report that the entire 17 minute long video had some jitter on the bottom of the image (where I had only previously seen it on the top, when it would occasionally manifest - but that was on a different scanner, with Mac84s firmware). Here's a sample from it:


Still not quite sure what triggers that from happening sometimes, but not other times on the same footage.

>> ThePhage said:

With a Model C on v7.1.1, I started scanning a 7" reel of Super8 film yesterday. Started off going well for about 7 minutes of resulting footage (with no issues on the resulting file). And then I had to stop the capture to re-frame the image. I restarted the capture and it automatically ended after about 17 minutes of resulting footage (the MP4 file is 4.2GB in size). When it ended capture, the scanner's on-screen display'gave me the typical poup message about closing or playing the file. But the scanner seemed to be frozen because it wouldnt' respond to button pushes. I was able to power off the device and the most recent captured file was okay. I am curious if the capture ended because of a 4GB filesize limit. On previous scans of 7" reels (about 9 months ago), my files never exceeded 4GB, even with Mac84's increased bitrate firmware. Also, I'm sad to report that the entire 17 minute long video had some jitter on the bottom of the image (where I had only previously seen it on the top, when it would occasionally manifest - but that was on a different scanner, with Mac84s firmware). Here's a sample from it: Still not quite sure what triggers that from happening sometimes, but not other times on the same footage. Click to expand...

@ThePhage Sorry to hear about your issues scanning 7" reels. I only have 3" reels to scan, so I don't have any 4 GB file size concerns. However, I also had the device "freeze" during a 3" reel scan once... I can live with that, because it hasn't done it since. Regarding the random jitter issues, I can think of a few possible causes:
1. Dirt/gunk accumulating in the gate path during a long scan
2. Not using all of the "rollers" on the right side of the scanner bed
3. Film not under all 4 tabs in the scanner bed
4. Hardware glitch such as a motor hiccup
5. Perforation tear or bad splice on the film
6. Takeup (drive) reel hub not fully seated on the drive spoke
7. Friction: Film stuck together or rubbing against the sides of its reel

Good luck, and don't tolerate faulty hardware if your unit is still under warranty!

4GBytes is a file size limit. At 35mbs that around a 15minutes for an 18fps reel. The software will crash at 4GB, but the file safely closes. Reboot is required. This would practically never happen with stock firmware at 8mbs, so there is no file chaptering implemented.

The glitch is a long term issue, way less on v7.x than v6.x. maybe <5% of captures. It happens on stock firmware, happens a tad more with the 12mm lens. It is just bad hardware/firmware design. I wish I could detect it.

>> ThePhage said:

With a Model C on v7.1.1, I started scanning a 7" reel of Super8 film yesterday. Started off going well for about 7 minutes of resulting footage (with no issues on the resulting file). And then I had to stop the capture to re-frame the image. I restarted the capture and it automatically ended after about 17 minutes of resulting footage (the MP4 file is 4.2GB in size). When it ended capture, the scanner's on-screen display'gave me the typical poup message about closing or playing the file. But the scanner seemed to be frozen because it wouldnt' respond to button pushes. I was able to power off the device and the most recent captured file was okay. I am curious if the capture ended because of a 4GB filesize limit. On previous scans of 7" reels (about 9 months ago), my files never exceeded 4GB, even with Mac84's increased bitrate firmware. Also, I'm sad to report that the entire 17 minute long video had some jitter on the bottom of the image (where I had only previously seen it on the top, when it would occasionally manifest - but that was on a different scanner, with Mac84s firmware). Here's a sample from it: Still not quite sure what triggers that from happening sometimes, but not other times on the same footage. Click to expand...

I use @0dan0 s V7.11. I recognize sometimes flickering, but this I could resolve in a second scan with one or two steps down or up in framing depending on the location where the flickering occurs. The flicker is not dependend on the software but on the frame located in the scanner.

Now that the days are getting shorter (and the evenings longer), I'm finding time to read here again...

I've now converted my C-scanner to a Scorpio lens.

However, I'm still struggling with the quality of my images...

The preview on the scanner display shows sharp images (the preview is - well, not that big...) - but in the film produced, I think the resolution is much worse.

Firmware: odans0 7.1.1
My settings:
WB: -1
Sharpness: -0.5
Green: 304 (432, 304, 320)
ev: 0
FPS: 18
----------------
The scanner shows:
- ISO 100
- Exposure: 2891

Yes, I know about this "video compression" - but is it really that "bad"?
Does compression also depend on the image content?...
I think that the image quality is quite good in the white opening credits (deepl, are you sure about what you've translated... :) )...




But when the images start, it somehow becomes "mushy".
Is that really "grain" - even where there's another bit of fluff - and it seems to me that it's not reproduced very sharply.
(Admittedly, the image may not be really sharply focused...)


I also took a series of shots with sharpness settings ranging from +2 to -2.
In my opinion, the videos with -1.5 or -2.0 look best. But I think Odan0 once said that with the 12 mm lens, a sharpness setting of -0.5 (or 0) would be okay...


Am I doing something wrong?

Thanks & best regards,
Thomas, who is still impressed by what has been happening here over the last few months. :)

Compression is very much image dependent. Yes you typically resolve more details from the fluff and the scratches than the image itself from 8mm film. At at 35 mbs the quality for noisy source is good, not great. More of a factor is 8mm film itself is not high resolution. The main reason the stock lens is good enough for most users. However can be worth revisiting the information gained in a before and after comparison
(it has gotten better since v6.5 used to make this video.)

I use sharpen at -1.0 mostly with the new lens.

>> 0dan0 said:

Compression is very much image dependent. Yes you typically resolve more details from the fluff and the scratches than the image itself from 8mm film. At at 35 mbs the quality for noisy source is good, not great. More of a factor is 8mm film itself is not high resolution. The main reason the stock lens is good enough for most users. However can be worth revisiting the information gained in a before and after comparison (it has gotten better since v6.5 used to make this video.) I use sharpen at -1.0 mostly with the new lens. Click to expand...

Thank you for your feedback.
Yes, I am familiar with this comparison...
On the other hand, I interpret your answer to mean that I am probably not doing anything wrong.
My concerns about the quality (specifically the difference in quality between the "preview" and the "final product" - I am definitely not complaining about the improved quality of the streams with the "hacked" firmware versions :cool: :)(y)) are therefore probably due to the video compression. Well, is it possible to obtain "uncompressed" video material from this part? [smiling-face-with-ha]
(Yes, of course, then there's the issue of file sizes again - but...)

Best regards,
Thomas

My lens and parts arrived. Next step is to 3D print the adapter.

>> ThePhage said:

A User Guide and Reference to 0Dan0's Custom Firmware Created: October 27, 2025 Last Revised: October 30, 2025 Most Recent Firmware: v7.1.1 Preamble The purpose of this post is to provide a user guide and reference document for 0Dan0 's custom firmware for the Kodak Reels Film Digitizer. This post will be revised for clarity and accuracy, and will also be edited as further revisions to 0Dan0's firmware are released. Please private message me if you have corrections, suggestions or requests for the cotents of this guide. This guide will not include specific information regarding the hardware modifications that are also being made to this scanner, such as lens replacements. Required Reading on Previous Firmware Work While the entire contents of this thread may be too overwhelming to read, please consider reading over Mac84's initial post for some helpful context to this overall effort, primarily around Mac84's custom firwmare. Particularly relevant, is information regarding the different versions of the Kodak Reels (A, B, C, etc). If you wish to make any firmware adjustments to your Kodak Reels Scanner, you will need to identify which version of the scanner you have. Changing the Firmware on your Scanner Warning : As with any firmware adjustment, exercise caution when changing the firmware. While uncommon, permanent damage can occur during a change of the firmware (for example, removing power from unit during firmware adjustment). (section to be added later) The User Guide On-Screen Display : With the scanner in capture mode, an informational display is overlayed in the bottom left corner of the screen including the following components: RGB Histogram (useful for evaluating exposure and color, Wiki Article ) White Balance (WB) RGB values (adjustable) ISO & Exposure (Exp) statistics Frame Count & Auto Exposure bias value (ev, adjustable) FPS (frames per second, adjustable) Controls Note: some of these controls use the On-Screen Menu system, while others are simply adjusted with the scanners buttons before and/or during capture White Balance (In Menu): You can manually adjust the Red/Blue color values of your image Up (toward red) Down (toward blue) Cannot be adjusted during capture A value of 0 is generally neutral, based on the LED-sourced backlight. Green Tint (Not in Menu): decrease or increase the green color value of your image Press the < or > (left or right arrow) buttons to adjust before and during capture The Green value is the second of the 3 color values listed on the display 256 is the default "neutral" value Adjusts in 15 steps (-7 to +7) from 144 to 368 (see bottom for list of values) Not to be confused with the erroneously labelled In-Menu Tint control (see 'Saturation' below, to be corrected in future release ) Auto Exposure Bias (Not in Menu): The firmware attempts to choose the best exposure , but you can adjust the Auto Exposure Bias to your preference. During capture press the + or - buttons Adjust only during capture (need to verify if still accurate) The 'ev' value on the display changes from -7 to +7 If you desire brighter exposure, increase the Exposure Bias If you desire darker exposure, decrease the Exposure Bias Saturation (In Menu, but erroneously labelled as "Tint" by manufacturer - to be corrected in future release ). 0 is "normal" color value +2 increases the color beyond normal -2 is no color (for scanning black and white film) Not reflected in the RGB values on the On-Screen Display Frame Adjust (In Menu): Adjust the framing and zoom to achieve desired framing of the image. In Firmware v (unknown) 0Dan0 adjusted this to allow for Zooming further wide than stock firmware allowed Frame Rate (Not in Menu): 16, 18, or 24 frames per second. Long Press the Up or Down arrows before or during capture to adjust Setting will be remembered after unit shutdown Adjust before or during capture Is not written to the file until the capture is stopped 8mm film is 16 or 18 fps; Super8 film is 18 or 24 fps Other Non-controllable features of this firmware : File resolution of 1600x1200 (actual resolving capability is dependant upon lens configuration) Bitrate with Peak Qp at ~35 Mb/s Disabled 3DNR (preserving some detail and rendering of film grain) Full Range fix (metadata in the MP4 file specifying Full Range vs Broadcast range) Auto Stop (stops capture when it detects that no film is being scanned -- like at the end of a reel) Custom Boot/Shutdown graphic displaying features, instructions, version number and firwmare release date Resulting folder/file naming to include firmware date/version ( verify this) Version History (currently incomplete, to be revised/clarified in future) v7.1.1 Release Notes Oct 21, 2025 Exposure: Went back to ISO 100-400, as was seeing more exposure stepping with ISO 50. White balance: 0 is now normalized to color of the backlight. FPS: is now selectable between 16, 18 and 24fps. Long hold on up or down, arrows to increase or decrease the frame rate. You will be remembered, and can be changed during capture, as the value is only used when the capture is stopped. Note: v7.1 was quickly replaced by 7.1.1 to fix the adjustable frame rate feature v7.0 Release Notes Oct. 20, 2025 Added auto exposure back into preview Added ISO 50 back to the exposure range Added Tint -2.0 is now true B&W Comment: Let me know if you seeing much jitter in 7.0, as the preview auto exposure was originally disabled to reduce jitter. Now the preview auto exposure biases to a short shutter, hopefully to achieve the same jitter reduction. I'm not seeing any jitter my brief testing. v6.9 Release Notes Oct. 15, 2025 All updated to V6.9, types A, B and C. Comment: I reduced the EV range to be more subtle, so larger values might be required. I was reacting to this comment "EV1 is a little to dark, ev 2 is too bright". EV +2 now more is like the last EV +1. This does not make the scan brighter or darker directly, instead it biases the input to the auto exposure. As the exposure logic tries to limit unnecessary brightness changes, it is more intended for a scene change, some EV values may no appear to change the brightness, this is normal. You can trick the unit into thinking there is a scene change by temporarily placing your finger between the camera and film. V6.9 adds: Exposure stats (to the LCD), Green Tint < or > (buttons) and EV bias + or - buttons in capture. Relevant Discussion: jackmonte1987 said: Thank you so much 0dan0 , Now I get back to scanning. I just want to clarify, when you say EV you are talking about the green tint using the left and right arrows correct? Would 0 be considered default or "untouched". Also will this fw update fix my stuck setting? I know you had said that the settings will remain even despite a fw change. 0Dan0 response: No, green tint for white balance is < and > buttons, EV (exposure bias) is new, and use + and - buttons, but only during capture. These are explained (so briefly) on the boot screen. There is no correct setting, just what looks good to you. (Previous versions to be added later) Green Tint Value Reference 144 = -7 (Decreased Green, toward Magenta) 160 = -6 176 = -5 192 = -4 208 = -3 224 = -2 240 = -1 256 = 0 (neutral) 272 = +1 288 = +2 304 = +3 320 = +4 336 = +5 352 = +6 368 = +7 (Increased Green, away from Magenta) Click to expand...

Would really like to add any and all LENS info, parts lists, 3D print models, and links to this master guide. B)

With the now modified lens, I have started to "unwind" my film rolls :)

I have the odanO 7.1.1 firmware on a C-model and have noticed something that I never noticed in the earlier versions in the summer of 2025 (but maybe I didn't scan long enough back then...).

Issue 1:
The scanner simply stops - sporadically - with no apparent connection so far.
Sometimes the frame counter on the display continues to count, but sometimes the frame counter also stops.
The file has different sizes (e.g. 1.6 GB, or even only 45 MB - there are still x GB free on the 16 GB card...).
When I then "cancel" (so that I return to the main menu) and continue scanning from there, the scanner often stops again after a few images. I then switch it off and on again.
In the files, I can't detect anything unusual when playing them back (on the pc) in such situations (but I haven't really looked at them in detail yet...).
This is not a problem for me - I am simply sharing this information with the developers (as a possible hint for other issues :giggle: ).


Topic 2:
When I let the scanner 'run empty' (i.e. the film has come to an end), it stops after a few moments (thanks, OdanO (y) ).
I believe this stop can also occur when the film gets stuck and the same image is scanned over and over again...
The strange thing is that the scanner still displays the "save" menu (Close) and jumps back to the main menu from there. But if I just leave the scanner as it is, it suddenly starts "scrolling" through the three main menu items over and over again - and then suddenly opens the main menu "Menu" - or jumps back to "Capture".
Well, maybe this is another upcoming feature - automatically reformatting the card immediately after scanning... [smiling-face-with-ha]
No - again, this is not a problem for me (but as I said, I am a programmer myself, and such anomalies sometimes indicate latent problem situations...


Kind regards,
Thomas
... writing good source code yourself is challenging - but hacking programme code is in a different league...

>> eyeidea said:

My lens and parts arrived. Next step is to 3D print the adapter. Click to expand...

Hello eyeidea
I'm very curious to see how you determine the correct "thickness" of the sensor base.
If I understand correctly, the aim is to position the sensor at exactly the right distance so that it captures the entire image without (much) cropping in the software/settings - and yet the lens is still able to focus on the entire image.
Maybe I'm doing something wrong - but we're talking about fractions of a millimetre here...
I now have four 20 mm long m2 screws and have cut m2 threads through the original holder - the camera sensor is pushed upwards by four small springs (these are placed over the screws) - this allows me to steplessly adjust the height of the sensor by screwing it in or out.
My springs are currently compressed to approx. 5.5 mm...
... just don't touch it... [smiling-face-with-ha]
Kind regards
Thomas

The random stopping is known, and happens more with the sharper lens. It will most often happen when the scene has a lot of texture and details, for which the new lens reveals more. The encoder is crashing with so much information (it is a crappy encoder from ~2011.) user control, a lower sharpness can help. Things I can try for this. 1. At least display the error message, so you can know why it stopped. 2. Allow user controlled bitrate, by setting Qp new limit. 3. Lowering the overall bitrate/quality (not planning on.). The issue for 2., I have run out of buttons in their current usage method. I have tried to stop the crashing, but without source code, not much more I can do.

I had to use a new and empty 32 GB SD Card, well formatted. The scanner shows a yellow rectangel with a yellow cross in it when I wanted to start scanning.
I put a text-file on the card an scanning was running. Just to report the behavior.

I don't follow. Attach pictures

>> TheElk said:

I had to use a new and empty 32 GB SD Card, well formatted. The scanner shows a yellow rectangel with a yellow cross in it when I wanted to start scanning. I put a text-file on the card an scanning was running. Just to report the behavior. Click to expand...

>> TheElk said:

I had to use a new and empty 32 GB SD Card, well formatted. The scanner shows a yellow rectangel with a yellow cross in it when I wanted to start scanning. I put a text-file on the card an scanning was running. Just to report the behavior. Click to expand...

Hello TheElk,

I can't reproduce your findings.
My 32GB card isn't recognised (as soon as I try to start recording, this yellow St. Andrew's cross appears).
I can start recording with a 128GB card, but nothing is written to the card....
so I'll stick with the 16GB card for now... :)

Kind regards,
Thomas

>> 0dan0 said:

I don't follow. Attach pictures Click to expand...

I have to correct my expression. I formatted the ard with 8 k, showing the cross with and without a file, 16 k showing the cross with and without a file, 32 k was today workig without additional file.

>> thjakob said:

Hello TheElk, I can't reproduce your findings. My 32GB card isn't recognised (as soon as I try to start recording, this yellow St. Andrew's cross appears). I can start recording with a 128GB card, but nothing is written to the card.... so I'll stick with the 16GB card for now... Kind regards, Thomas Click to expand...

What Blocksize did you use ? See my answer on post ( #859 ). May be try to put a small file on the card when attached to your PC.