I received my MacEffects case yesterday. I'm so glad they did another run of the clear because I always loved the look but missed out on previous sales. I've had an SE/30 with a reloaded board I've been keeping around with the intention of putting it in a clear case if I ever got the opportunity. So, here's some photos I took of my newly assembled SE/30. Paired it with the clear mouse and clear Design68 keyboard I built specifically for this machine.



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Now I need to start saving up to add upgrades to this machine, like grayscale and maybe an accelerator.

And thanks @MacEffects for all the awesome products you've made for the Vintage Apple community!

I just got an SE SuperDrive from someone who said the case was broken, and it was very much unrepairable, I really should get a maceffects case for it, and a logic board because it didn't come with one

>> Nixontheknight said:

I just got an SE SuperDrive from someone who said the case was broken, and it was very much unrepairable, I really should get a maceffects case for it, and a logic board because it didn't come with one Click to expand...

Let me know if you are looking for a case. I have an extra SE case and an extra logic board if you need. I assume you have the inside metal frame?

>> wottle said:

Let me know if you are looking for a case. I have an extra SE case and an extra logic board if you need. I assume you have the inside metal frame? Click to expand...

yes I do, is the logic board for an SE SuperDrive/FDHD or an SE/30? If it's for a regular SE, I don't have any double density floppy drives, much less double density disks. Shall we move this to DMs?

I just received my MacEffects case TODAY! I previously received the programmer's switch, mouse, and speaker. I am really looking forward to transferring my restored SE/30 into the new shell. Your's looks great, especially that keyboard! Here's mine fresh out of the box!
[Image: IMG_0675.jpeg]

Question @wottle how did you do the silver/clear cord on ADB mouse? I assume it's from another device perhaps? Was there already ADB (4-pin DIN) connector or did you find an S-video cable, or put together your own connector?

I am planning to 3D print a replacement brightness knob using the model I created and uploaded to thingiverse a while back using some old T-GLAS clear filament which I think would work great, but we shall see.

Oh no. . . I just looked up Design68 and now I am falling down that rabbit hole. I have built several mech keyboards over the years==even hand-wired, soldered diodes etc. etc. but these were all USB. So now I guess I am going to have to do figure out a "clear" ADB solution like yours. Thanks a lot. ;-)

that keyboard... yes please.

source?

Let me add my two cents the gentleman who runs Macaffects is one of the nicest most helpful people in this hobby, and I couldn't say anything nicer about somebody!!!

Yes - Mark is a good guy!

Now I just have to figure out how I can pay him the extra dollars he ate for the tariffs on these things. Doesn't seem fair to me that he should bear that cost! I'm sure the margins were slim on these pieces before the tariffs hit.


My case is supposed to arrive tomorrow, looking forward to it.

>> caver01 said:

Question @wottle how did you do the silver/clear cord on ADB mouse? I assume it's from another device perhaps? Was there already ADB (4-pin DIN) connector or did you find an S-video cable, or put together your own connector? I am planning to 3D print a replacement brightness knob using the model I created and uploaded to thingiverse a while back using some old T-GLAS clear filament which I think would work great, but we shall see. Click to expand...

So, I ended up making my own. I found a clear sheathed S-video cable, but it was too thick for use with the design68 keyboard. I found some clear cables on aliexpress that worked for both the mouse and the keyboard. I then used some s-video mini-DIN 4 pin connectors for the other ends of the cables.

The details of the parts I used can be found in the design68 keyboard thread. https://tinkerdifferent.com/threads...using-appledesign-controllers.2952/post-38290

Also, there is a post from earlier in that thread where I talk about the other parts I used (clear keycaps and clear key switches).

A clear adjustment knob sounds awesome. I'll definitely be checking out your model and seeing if I can get it printed in clear resin! It seems like JLCPCB shipping prices have come back down to reasonable levels for shipping to the US, so I'm going to order some parts I've been holding off doing.

>> Dave928 said:

that keyboard... yes please. source? Click to expand...

It's a Design68 keyboard. This one is a bit modified from the original design to use a slightly different variant of the case. I go into the details in this post: https://tinkerdifferent.com/threads...using-appledesign-controllers.2952/post-36774

But, I would recommend sticking with the stock CIY Tester68 keyboard that the creator recommends. Using the Novice68 keyboard required a good bit of hacking and it's not nearly as easy or clean, and I don't think it actually makes that much difference. I originally wanted to try the Novice68 because it had a more translucent case, and it had extendable legs. The legs are nice, but you barely notice the translucence of the case itself. It's not worth the hassle, in my opinion.

However, I do really like the clear cables I used for the mouse and the keyboard. I'd recommend switching them out if you can.

One thing I really wish I had tried to do is see if I could have gotten a laser cut clear acrylic in the right thickness to use as the mounting plate. Mine has a white mounting plate, but I think it would be really cool to be able to see the Design68 PCB through that top plate.

>> caver01 said:

Question @wottle how did you do the silver/clear cord on ADB mouse? I assume it's from another device perhaps? Was there already ADB (4-pin DIN) connector or did you find an S-video cable, or put together your own connector? I am planning to 3D print a replacement brightness knob using the model I created and uploaded to thingiverse a while back using some old T-GLAS clear filament which I think would work great, but we shall see. Click to expand...

Would people be interested in a group buy (at cost) for clear resin version of these adjustment knobs? it looks like I could get them for around $3 each if I ordered 10.



I have a combined model that should print OK in resin. I'm going to print a couple out and see if they fit ok in the MacEffects case. Also, @caver01 , are you OK with me doing that? Not looking to profit, offering at cost, just trying to help people out that don't want to order their own from a resin printing service.

>> wottle said:

It's a Design68 keyboard. This one is a bit modified... Click to expand...

thank you.

since you guys are debating clear parts I'll share how mine turned out. zigzagjoe printed them for me (I paid for the spool of clear filament) when I bought his color LCD kit, all of which are going in the clear SE/30. my case is scheduled to arrive tomorrow, but I need to recap the SE/30 and do some other things before the swap.

LCD mount and bezel
RAM SIMM clips
ROM SIMM clips
Speaker ring(?)
Fan mount
Rear access panel
Brightness knobs
BlueSCSI mount which fills the floppy slot and puts the SD slot there.

>> Dave928 said:

since you guys are debating clear parts I'll share how mine turned out. zigzagjoe printed them for me (I paid for the spool of clear filament) when I bought his color LCD kit, all of which are going in the clear SE/30. my case is scheduled to arrive tomorrow, but I need to recap the SE/30 and do some other things before the swap. LCD mount and bezel RAM SIMM clips ROM SIMM clips Speaker ring(?) Fan mount Rear access panel Brightness knobs BlueSCSI mount which fills the floppy slot and puts the SD slot there. View attachment 21868 View attachment 21869 View attachment 21870 Click to expand...

I highly recommend trying clear resin prints if you want to match the clear MacEffects case. I printed the mouse in my photos using JLC3DP. It's not perfect, but it will be better than anything you can product using a filament printer. By a lot.

I've printed clear cases for my HDI-45 adapters as well as recreation Lisa mouse enclosures.


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>> wottle said:

Also, @caver01 , are you OK with me doing that? Click to expand...

YES. and I would be interested in getting one in clear resin once you figure that out. FDM T-GLAS is probably fine, but clear resin would be better for sure.

As far as I am concerned, the knob model was just my way to give at least just a tiny bit back to the community from which I have gained so much knowledge and support.

>> wottle said:

I highly recommend trying clear resin prints if you want to match the clear MacEffects case. I printed the mouse in my photos using JLC3DP. It's not perfect, but it will be better than anything you can product using a filament printer. By a lot. I've printed clear cases for my HDI-45 adapters as well as recreation Lisa mouse enclosures. View attachment 21881 View attachment 21882 View attachment 21883 View attachment 21884 Click to expand...

good idea, thanks. which one of their resins did you go with, the 8001?

>> Dave928 said:

good idea, thanks. which one of their resins did you go with, the 8001? Click to expand...

Yes, I've used the 8001 with the transparent oil spray finish. I've had some very good parts, and some that were not nearly as good. I think if you want the highest quality, I'd go with PCBWay, but they are significantly more expensive (5-10x).

case FINALLY arrived. yay!